Day 05
Monday, February 16
Posted by Geoff Green, Expedition Leader
Today is D-day! Departure day! Our ship arrived early this morning and this afternoon at about 1630hrs we will move aboard and get ready to set sail down the Beagle Channel and begin our journey to Antarctica!!!
This morning the students are all in the conference room at the hotel for a presentation by Dr. Eric Galbraith titled "Introduction to Antarctica".
They are also participating in something we've called "Staff-Student Speed Dating!! A chance for students to rotate around the room in 20 minute intervals and meet each of our education team members, learn about their areas of expertise, ask questions, etc. A great and fun way for all the students to learn more about our team before we even set off on the journey. In the days to come our team of experts will be delivering workshops, lectures, and hands-on educational research in Oceanography, Flora & Fauna, Glaciology, Earth Sciences, Environmental Issues, History, Politics, Polar Tourism, Photography, Media, and much more.
Yesterday, was a great day spent hiking in the mountains, visiting Harberton, the oldest ranch in Tierra del Fuego, and some time in town.
After dinner, our expedition briefing talked about our plans for the next
11 days in Antarctica, about safety precautions, and all the many details that go into making an expedition successful. We also discussed the spirit of our journey, the need to really observe and connect, what a privilege it is to do what we are doing, and how that brings with it a responsibility to use this opportunity and experience to make a difference in the future. We'll talk much more about that in the days to come. The anticipation and excitement in the room was palpable...
Our team is now 100% complete! The last few members of our group arrived to Ushuaia (after delayed or cancelled flights) by late afternoon. And what a great group we have!
It's hard to believe the day has come to begin this expedition. We talked and dreamed about a university expedition for years and years, and now it is really happening! So many people and groups need to be thanked for helping make this journey a reality. The three key University partners that put their support into this project from the beginning - University of Alberta (Dr. Marianne Douglas), University of Ottawa (Dr. Luke Copland), and University of Northern British Columbia (Dr. Pat Maher).
Without their support, their students, and the course credits they are offering we would not have made this work. Also, so many other amazing partners:
- International Polar Year
- Canada's IPY Federal Program - who have generously supported the participation of our two Grise Fiord students (Terry and Jason), and Dr. David Burgess from the Geological Survey of Canada. They have also supported the documentary film we are making about the expedition and the experience of Terry & Jason.
- The Canadian Circumpolar Institute
- Brita Canada - sponsors of our expedition jackets, hats, shirts and water bottles
- Makivik Corporation - for their financial support and partnership to allow the participation of three students from Nunavik, Canada
- The Argentine Embassy in Canada - for their help in arranging visits in Buenos Aires and at their bases in Antarctica
- The Snyder Family - for their incredible support of students for the past 7 years
- Environment Canada - for their support in the Environmental Impact Assessment process and permitting required for us to visit Antarctica
- Impossible2Possible - for their support of two student scholarships on the expedition and ongoing partnership and promotion
- ArcticNet - for offering grants to University participants
- Millennium Scholarships - for offering some financial support to qualified student participants
- LAN Airlines- our official South American airline, for their great service
- The Canadian Museum of Nature - one of our founding partners and greatest supporters
- The Royal Canadian Geographical Society - also one of our founding partners and greatest supporters
- First Air - for their great support in transporting our northern youth and film crew
- EYES Project - for all their support with the continued evolution and improvement of our educational program
- Edelman Public Relations - for their media support and advice
- NSERC - for their financial support of the educational program and science components
- Podium Audio Visual - who have generously loaned us computers for our expeditions for 8 years in a row
- The Explorers Club
- All the Moms, Dads, Aunts, Uncles, Grandparents, Teachers and friends that helped make the journey possible for each and every student
- The SOI office team - Reina, Tim, Jesse, Mary, Niki, Sam and Zoe
- And many, many, many others.
THANK YOU TO EACH OF YOU!!!!!!
Let's go to Antarctica!
In the expedition spirit,
Geoff
group of students on hike to glacier in Ushuaia
Posted by Canada AM co-host Seamus O'Regan
So, we set out in 4 hours, and I am green with the anticipation of sea sickness. Not a good start.
Gravol is scoffed at in these parts. I'm equipped with the PATCH. Placed behind the ear, it's meant to secrete some magical elixir into my system and stem off the nausea, but we've been warned that it's strong stuff, and people react to it differently. Well, there will soon only be one way to find out.
Now, the waters off of Newfoundland and Labrador are not to be trifled with either, and the Strait of Belle Isle and the Cabot Strait I know can be vicious. But I wasn't cocky coming into this expedition and, having walked out of Dr. Eric Galbraith's lecture this morning, I am green with humility, as well.
Eric is a Halifax native and oceanographer at Princeton and he gave a fascinating lecture on what we're about to experience.
Firstly, he explained the Arctic is an ocean, covered by ice and snow, and surrounded by continents. Antarctica is a continent, covered by ice and snow, and surrounded by an ocean.
That ocean is the Southern Ocean - it has the world's strongest waves, biggest currents, and largest waves - by a long shot. In winter, the Southern Ocean south of India reaches an average wave height of 8m, or 30ft. The average in the Drake Passage now (the narrow gap between South America and the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula) is 3m.
The Antarctic Circumpolar Current is the world's mightiest, equal to 200 times the outflow of ALL the world's rivers. We will be passing through its narrowest passage. I'll leave it there.
This current also keeps warm water away, making it much colder than the Arctic and allowing huge ice sheets to form permanently there. (One of the scientific purposes of this expedition is to study the effects of climate change on this current).
The upside to Antarctica's violent oceanography (and meteorology) is that it has also completely kept humans away until 100 years ago - the only (relatively) untouched place in the world.
In a few hours, that's where we're headed. The students on board are tremendously excited, but equally so are the expedition leaders, some of whom have travelled this passage several times annually for 20 years and more. It's the excitement on their faces that really gives me a queasy stomach - how utterly foreign and magnificent must a place to be so inhospitable and yet grab such a hold on these people?
In two days we'll find out.
Students hiking in fog, Ushuaia
Posted from SOI World HQ from Transcribed interviews aboard the M/V Ushuaia
Mireille Deschamps, Canada:
"As the boat leaves the port in Ushuaia, it is just hitting me that I’m going to Antarctica and I’m a little in shock. I really enjoyed the past few days in Argentina – a beautiful country, I loved the cities, people and the glaciers in Tierra del Fuego!
What I am looking forward to experiencing in Antarctica are the massive glaciers & icebergs; to see how the world looks down there; to stand on ice and be amazed by the scenery! I am also looking forward to meeting penguins and participating in the field studies for my Glaciology course.
I have already met many new people from across Canada and Internationally – I am enjoying the team and having an awesome experience so far!"
Nishtha Sinha, India:
"No words to express how I’m feeling right now. I am trying to take it all in – total amazement!
Argentina was so different from where I’m from & I really loved the country! I am looking forward to continuing this positive experience as we sail for Antarctica and to experience all aspects of the continent. I am interested in learning how to save Antarctica and to learn more about youth involvement.
Good-bye civilized world! I am so excited and I can’t wait! This is unbelievable! All these months of waiting and I’m finally here!"
Luke Copland and students discuss trees in Terra Del Fuego
Journal Entry by Terry Noah, Grise Fiord, Nunavut
Beagle Channel
This morning after lunch I went to town in Ushuaia to buy some munchies for the ship. Afterwards, we went to the parking lot and waited till 4:30 for the bus. We boarded the M/V Ushuaia (the ship) at about 4:40, had some fruits and snacks, then set sail between 5 and 6. We are now on the way to Antarctica.
Busy dock in Ushuaia as the team waits to set sail for Antarctica
Journal Entry by
Ashley Peter-Rennich, University of Alberta
20min from the Drake Passage
About 20 min left in the Beagle Channel ’til we hit the 3-8m swells of the Drake Passage! It’s incredible to know that we’re actually here, and setting sail with the ship. No more talking about it, but really doing it!
This morning we congregated at the Glacier Hotel to do a speed dating activity where we students got to meet the teaching staff and other SOI personnel. It was a good exercise to get an overview of the activities we will be doing and the individual perspectives of the leaders of this excursion.
Ushuaia is a beautiful city. It reminds me of a small Northern city like Yellowknife. The architecture incorporates the country rock, there are a lot of outdoor adventures around the city and the mentality of the people is very relaxed. It was a great city to take off from, into the unknown…
Inside the Lifeboat
Journal Entry by
Marianne Mathis, ULaval
Ushuaia, Argentina & Beagle Channel
Le grand départ avait lieu en après-midi. Aurevoir Ushuaia, levons l’ancre pour le pôle sud!
J’étais vraiment très excitée à l’idée de partir ainsi, pour la première fois de ma vie, sur un bateau qui allait me conduire, avec tous les étudiants et les scientifiques, à travers le Southern Ocean pendant 2 jours. Nervosité et excitation se faisaient sentir: allions-nous supporter le mal de mer? Le Beagle Channel était assez calme, mais la situation a changé vers les 22 heures, alors que les vagues ont commencé a être plus fortes. Reste à voir comment chacun d’entre nous vivra sa première nuit à bord du bateau.
Nous avons donc des salles de conférence à bord, qui serviront de salles de cours et un laboratoire sera installé afin que nous puissions observer certains prélèvements (ex. océaniques) au microscope. C’est ce que nous ferons demain: en apprendre plus sur l’Antarctique, les plates-formes de glace, les icebergs ainsi que la faune aviaire de l’Antarctique. Ce matin, nous avons d’ailleurs appris à connaître les professeurs qui partagent cette expérience avec nous: il est impressionnant de découvrir ce qui les a motivés à découvrir ce continent isolé et comment ils en sont devenus follement amoureux. Depuis Shackleton, ils sont nombreux à rêver de découvrir ce continent oh combien mystérieux, particulièrement parce qu’il est trop hostile pour que l’humain en supporte le climat.
J’ai hâte de découvrir ces champs glacés, ces îles à la faune si particulière, ce vent apparemment incessant et ce froid qui pince les joues. Semble-t-il qu’il s’agit réellement d’un monde inconnu, et que malgré toute notre volonté de le partager avec les gens à notre retour, il est difficile de totalement partager cette expérience totalement hors du commun.
Émilie Hébert-Houle, éudiante en géographie à l’UQTR, et anciennement étudiante au Cégep de Trois-Rivières avec moi, partage ma chambre pour cette aventure. Nous étions très enthousiastes à l’idée de partager cette aventure en tant qu’amies et en tant que futures géographes. Nous avons encore du mal à réaliser notre chance et tout ce qui nous entoure, mais nous vivons au maximum cette formidable expérience qui nous en apprend autant au point de vue professionnel que sur l’environnement, qui nous tient vraiment à cœur, dans le contexte des changements climatiques. Nous travaillerons d’ailleurs à développer des outils de sensibilisation, à notre retour, ensemble.
Émilie et Marianne, devant les montagnes d’Ushuaia
Émilie et Marianne au sommet du bateau, alors que nous traversons le Beagle Channel
Lifeboat Drill
Journal Entry by
Mireille Deschamps,
Université d’Ottawa
Notre départ pour l’Antarctique!
Effectivement, depuis quelques jours plus de 80 étudiants se sont rendus en Argentine pour une expédition incroyable. Certains ont eu la chance de passer par Buenos Aires tandis que d’autres ont rejoint le groupe à Ushuaia, Argentine. Ushuaia a été notre lieu de résidence pour les 3 derniers jours, un merveilleux point de départ pour note expédition en Antarctique. Par contre, je crois qu’aujourd’hui nous sommes officiellement partis pour se merveilleux continent qui a seulement été exploré au cours des 100 dernières années. Notre bateau MV Ushuaia a quitté le port et c’est à ce moment que le déclique s’est fait. Je m’envais en Antarctique! Bien sûr, se fut mon intention dès le départ, par contre mon expérience à Buenos Aires et à Ushuaia fut si fantastique qu’il était difficile de pensé au reste de l’expédition. De plus, être sur le bateau quittant pour le Passage Drake a confirmé que l’Antarctique est tout près. Ma maison pour les prochaines semaines me semblent parfaites. Par contre, je dois me préparer se soir pour le Passage Drake et m’assurer que mon petit chez-soi est bien rangé, puisque qu’on ne sait jamais ce qui nous attend sur ces eaux. Qui sais, avec le mouvement des vagues je se sera peut-être moi qui tombera de mon lit pour me retrouver sur mon plancher demain matin.
*********
Our departure for Antarctica!
A few days ago over 80 students met in Argentina for an incredible expedition. Some members of the group had the chance to pass through Buenos Aires while others joined the group in Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia has been our home for the past 3 days and was a great point of departure for our expedition in Antarctica. However, today is the first day I can really say we have left for this amazing continent that has only been explored for the last 100 years. Our ship, the MV Ushuaia has left the port and it has really hit me. I’m headed to Antarctica!
Of course this was my plan all along; nevertheless my experience in Buenos Aires and Ushuaia has been so fantastic that it was difficult to see what was waiting for me in the days to come. On top of this, being on the ship leaving for the Drake Passage was confirmation that this is indeed happening. Nothing can stop us now. My home for the next week or so is very cozy, but we have been warned to prepare for the Drake Passage. Actually, we were told to Drake proof our cabins, since we don’t know the size of the waves that are awaiting us. Who knows, I might be the one rolling off my bed and waking up on the floor tomorrow.
Students onboard the MV Ushuaia
Journal Entry by BJ Bodnar, Casa Rio, Saskatoon
Entering the Drake Passage
The time spent in Argentina, coupled with the lengthy duration of our air times on route has given participants a great opportunity to reflect on the meaning of our upcoming journey, and the goals we hope to meet both as a group and individually. There is certainly a sense of excitement that is shared by staff, students, and the education team alike. Whether it is the prospect of realizing a life long dream, or simply the sense of amazing privilege that comes with visiting a place seen only by a fraction of a percent of all people, there is a clear awareness that what we are about to partake in is something very special.
Although there is a diverse level of experience within the group, ranging from those who have never been on a ship to those who have been to Antarctica in excess of 150 times, we are united by a common purpose and sense of adventure. After having the chance to take part in a past expedition, I am aware of how quickly the time can pass amidst the beautiful scenery and significant personal development that we experience throughout. During the next days at sea, I will be sure to remind myself to take necessary time to appreciate and enjoy where I am and what I am a part of. To this point, the greatest challenge of the expedition has been to balance the intense anticipation of what is in store, with the recognition that every moment we spend is precious in itself.
Each Lifeboat holds 54 people
Journal Entry by Kevin Turner, Wilfred Laurier University
Tierra Del Fuego
This trip has been fantastic so far and we are just beginning. This part of the world (Tierra del Fuego) is an amazing place. Our first field trip involved a hike to Emeraldo lagoon situated at the bottom of a cirque glacier – where some of us went for a swim. We had to walk for a couple of hours through a peat bog and a forest composed mostly of southern beech trees (nothofargus), which occupy southern regions around the world. They used to occupy parts of Antarctica, which indicates that Antarctica was further north and connected to South America long ago. I know this because everywhere we go here, we have polar region experts with us to explain everything. I could go on and on about all the things that we’ve seen and learned – like the growing population of Canadian beavers that are decimating the valleys in this region – but the dead line to submit this is now. The people on this trip are awesome. I’ll be back. J and H on my mind.
Dr. Eric Galbraith and students
Journal Entry by Vincent Lok,
Vancouver, Sir Charles Tupper Secondary
Ushuaia, Argentina
It’s unbelievable that we’re at the bottom of the permanently populated world! I take a look on a map and see that we’re at the tip of South America. It is inconceivable that I have travelled so far from home, and really, it hasn’t even sunk in yet. This stop in Ushuaia could pass for a trip; it’s been this amazing. But it’s going to get even better when we cross the Beagle Channel and “Lake Drake”/“Drake Shake” Passage to the Antarctic Peninsula. I can’t wait to see the penguins!
A View of the Beagle Channel from the MV Ushuaia
Journal Entry by Joey Fitzpatrick, Halifax, Nova Scotia
Ushuaia, Argentina
Departure time is measured in minutes now, as we wait for the bus to take us from the hotel, through the streets of Ushuaia, to the vessel of the same name. The excitement level is reaching a quiet crescendo, as opposed to the hyper conversation at last night’s dinner.
Despite being just a three hour flight from the balmy warmth of Buenos Aires, Ushuaia is a world away, as the terrain and air temperature remind us that we are indeed at the entryway to another land, far removed from anything most have ever experienced. We stand at the gates of the unknown.
Student Kendra Johnston
Journal Entry by Andrew Budnick,
Wayland High School, Massachusetts
Hotel Del Glaciar, Ushuaia
Two days ago I thought to myself that it seemed like a very long time before we would board the ship. Now I’m leaving the hotel at 3:45 PM on a bus for the ship. I saw it for the first time this morning; it looked small from where we were, but then again, we are very far away from the dock. My only fear is that if these two days went by so quickly, the rest of the trip will do so as well.
I just came back from a hike where we almost made it to the glacier here. I got a taste of the famous Ushuaia weather when, within a half an hour, it was completely foggy, sunny, and raining. I can’t complain; aside from that, it’s been beautiful since we arrived. Besides, I like rain.
Here’s my favorite part: at home, the most I got when I mentioned Antarctica was either mild interest or a referral to a friend (“Oh, my uncle was in Antarctica back in the ‘50s”). Here, there are 89 people fascinated and passionate about the place. I’m not the only one in the class reading a book on Antarctica; the professor is giving a lesson on it. I’m intently looking forward to the rest of the lectures. It’s so easy to learn when the lesson is all around you.
I can’t wait to get on the ship. I can’t wait to set off for Antarctica.
Laguna Esmeralda, Tierra Del Fuego
Journal Entry by L-A Shibish,
Vancouver Island University
Ushuaia - en route to Antarctica
Today we hiked in the Patagonia Andes, to Emerald Lagoon. We started in the valley, and hiked through a peat bog. Luckily the tour operator had provided rubber boots, for at times we sank deep into the bog. I think that the bog was trying to steal our rubber boots as sometimes it would not let them go! Teamwork was the key to getting all the students through the bog, as we helped pull stuck students from the mud, and warned others when someone found a deep hole.
We passed several beaver dams. The beaver was an introduced species, brought from Canada to try and create a fur trade, but was a failed experience. However, the beavers thrived and have a growing population here in Argentina. The hike also took us through a hazel tree forest before we reached the moraine.
Accompanying our hike was professor Luke Copland, a glaciologist who provided interpretive commentary on the formation of the mountain range and facts about the glacier we viewed, the debris field and the moraine left behind when the glacier retreated. The contrast of the jagged mountains, the green glacial lake, and the white glacier was amazing.
Tomorrow we set sail for the Antarctic. Anticipation is running high. Can’t wait to get to the bottom of the world, and step on the ice covered continent.
Malaysian Student, Thari Bin Gazi
Journal Entry by
Maéva Gauthier,
St-Jovite, Quebec /University of Victoria
Ushuaia
French:
Superbe journée à Ushuaia, en el Fin del Mundo aujourd’hui! Nous sommes allés marcher dans le parc national de Tierra del Fuego vers le Laguna Esmeralda. Des bottes à eau sont nécessaires car nous marchons dans des terres inondées et des tourbières. 35 castors amenés par des canadiens dans les années 70 se sont multipliés en 100000 castors aujourd'hui! Le guide m’a dit «Culpa!». Si, mea culpa… cette introduction d’espèces a totalement changé le paysage et montre à quel point le castor est une espèce dites «ingénieure» qui influence l’écosystème au grand complet. Cela donne comme résultat un paysage d’arbres morts, de sols inondés, de mousses et lichens entourés des Andes. Magnifique et transformé. Naturel? Certains argumenteront, mais le castor est une espèce introduite. Quels endroits dans le monde aujourd’hui n’ont pas la présence d’espèces envahissantes? Cela fait partie maintenant de l’écosystème ici. Notre sentier nous a amené ensuite vers un magnifique lac turquoise alimenté par les glaciers et nous avons «lunché» face au lac.
De retour à l’hôtel, nous avons eu droit à une magnifique présentation par Geoff, fondateur de Students on Ice. Nous réalisons tous maintenant qu’on s’en va en Antarctique!! J’ai discuté avec Hans, assistant professeur en Suède. Il travaille sur le comportement et l’expérience des touristes et m’a introduit au terme «transforming tourism» ou tourisme transformateur j’imagine. Concept fort intéressant qui consiste en un voyage qui fait vivre une expérience et transforme la vie des visiteurs. Un peu le genre de voyage que je dirais qu’on vit en ce moment.Le concept m’a vraiment allumé et me fait réfléchir. Mes études passées en tourisme, mélangée avec mon bac en biologie et maintenant ma maîtrise en écologie marine se mélangent dans ma tête et j’essaie d’en ressortir avec des idées pour des emplois futurs, une direction à prendre. Je crois que ce voyage me permettra d’en apprendre plus là-dessus… ;)
Demain, on part pour l’Antarctique vers 18h30! On va passer dans les eaux les plus agités de la planète! Apparemment, ce sera le «Drake Lake» ou le «Drake Shake»!!!
English:
Today, we’ve hiked on a beautiful trail in Tierra del Fuego National Park to Laguna Esmeralda. Rain boots were necessary because the site is totally flooded. 35 Canadian beavers were introduced in the 70s and it’s now home to 100,000 beavers! Should I mention that it totally changed the whole landscape: dead trees, flooded areas, mosses, lichens and beautiful Andes mountains. Some people could argue about whether this is really a natural landscape. Nowadays, there are not many places in this world that are not dealing with invasive or alien species. So, we ended up this hike at a beautiful turquoise lake and had lunch there. Beautiful area and colour contrasts.
At night, we had a very nice presentation by Geoff to get us excited about the expedition! We’re going to Antarctica!! I discussed with Hans, assistant professor in Sweden. He works on tourist behaviour and introduced me to the concept of transforming tourism. I’ve never heard of it before. It consists basically of a trip that makes you live a changing or transforming experience. I quite liked this concept! Coming from a background of tourism, biology and now marine ecology, I’m trying to think about the direction to take after my studies. I think this trip might help me in that reflection.
Tomorrow, 6h30pm, we’re going to Antarctica!! We’ll cross the world’s roughest waters in the Drake Passage. Apparently, it will be “Drake Lake” or “Drake Shake”!
Scenery in the Beagle Channel
Journal Entry by Cassie Budd, University of Alberta
Leaving Ushuaia
Yesterday we went to Harberton Ranch and learned a lot about the history of the area. The drive to the ranch was beautiful and we traveled in the valley between two different mountain ranges. On the way we stopped to take pictures of the flag trees, and once we got there we visited the nature sanctuary, the old shearing shed, carpenter’s shop and a whale bone museum. On the way back to Ushuaia we stopped for lunch and had roast lamb and calafate ice cream for dessert.
Today we will be boarding the M/V Ushuaia and setting sail towards Antarctica. First we will travel down the Beagle Channel and then across the Drake Passage. I am going to miss Argentina, but I know the next 11 days are going to be truly amazing. After being here and learning so much about Antarctica, I am more excited than ever to be going. I am so grateful for this experience. I would like to thank EBA Engineering Consultants Ltd. in Edmonton, whose sponsorship made it possible for me to come on this expedition.
I have learned so much already and I know that I will keep learning in the days to come. This is already turning out to be the trip of a lifetime, and I’m looking forward to every minute of what’s left.
Journal Entry by Florian Hofmann and Lukas Sundermann
Ushuaia, MV Ushuaia
Das Hotel ist super, aber es bleibt keine Zeit alles zu genießen. Nach dem Meet and Greet und einigen Briefings geht es zum Shoppen. T-Shirts, wasserdichte Hosen, Handschuhe, Unterwäsche, Socken, Sonnenbrillen, Zahnbürsten, Fleece usw. muss alles in kürzester Zeit gekauft werden. Das Angebot in der Weltmetropole Ushuaia ist nicht gerade groß.
Abends geht es dann auf die M/V Ushuaia und lernen die anderen Teilnehmer kennen. Es geht durch den Beagle Channel zur Drake Passage Richtung Antarktischer Halbinsel. Noch ist das Wasser ruhig und alles wunderbar, vor allem da ein Glücklicher 5 Minuten vor dem Ablegen sein Gepäck doch noch bekommen hat. Also rege ich (Lukas) mich auf über 400 Dollar, die ich nutzlos für Ausrüstungsgegenstände in den Sand gesetzt habe und versuche vergeblich, auf dem Schiff einen Absatzmarkt (Florian) zu finden. In der Lounge der Ushuaia ist man abends noch guter Dinge bis es dann doch irgendwann verdächtig zu schwanken beginnt. Dann ist es soweit, auf die Nacht hin heißt es dann: Experience the Drake Shake!
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